Oban: Gateway to the Isles — Ferries & Island Days
Oban is a harbour town where ferries set the rhythm and seafood stalls spill the day’s catch onto the pier. Above it all rises McCaig’s Tower, a 19th-century monument built in the style of a Roman colonnade, watching over the bay like a stone amphitheatre. Compact and easy to walk, Oban makes island days simple: step aboard a ferry in the morning, explore a new shore, and be back in time for dinner as the sun sets across the Firth of Lorn.
Adventures for Every Traveler
Oban’s satellites are close enough to make island-hopping feel effortless, though some demand a longer day or the freedom of a car. Here’s what waits across the water:
- Kerrera: A ten-minute hop brings you to a car-free island. Walk the coast path to Gylen Castle, a ruined 16th-century tower perched on cliffs above the sea. Perfect for: a relaxed half-day hike with wide views.
- Lismore: A longer but easy ferry crossing leads to a low, green island best explored by bike. Quiet lanes pass chapels and farmsteads before reaching lighthouses at the edges of the sea. Perfect for: easy cycling, birdlife, and open horizons.
- Craignure (Mull gateway): The ferry from Oban lands here in under an hour. Stay close to the pier for Duart Castle, a medieval stronghold guarding the Sound of Mull, or use it as the starting point for deeper exploration of Mull — including Tobermory to the north and Iona to the west, both reached via Craignure. Perfect for: a simple day crossing or the gateway to longer island journeys.
- Tobermory: From Craignure, it’s about an hour north by bus or car to reach Mull’s painted harbour town. Brightly coloured houses curve around the bay, fishing boats rock with the tide, and cafés spill out with the scent of baking. Day-trip note: possible without a car but tight; best enjoyed with wheels or an overnight.
- Iona: At Mull’s far western edge lies Iona, reached via bus or drive to Fionnphort and a short second ferry. The abbey’s stones hold centuries of pilgrimage, and its beaches shimmer with white shell sand. Day-trip note: a very long outing from Oban; far more comfortable with a car or an overnight stay on Mull.
And when you stay in town, the rewards are just as simple: a whisky tour at Oban Distillery, a walk along the promenade, or a paper box of fresh shellfish eaten as the ferries nose back into port.
Where to Stay
Harbour-front hotels catch the glow of ferry lights and make early sailings easy. Guesthouses step up the hill toward McCaig’s Tower, swapping bustle for wide views. Self-catering flats tuck into quiet backstreets, giving families and longer stays the freedom to plan at their own pace.
Tip: In July and August, ferries and restaurants book up quickly. April to June and September balance long daylight with calmer crowds.
No Car? No Problem.
Oban is perfectly manageable without a vehicle. Trains and buses connect directly from Glasgow, ferries run to Kerrera, Lismore, and Mull, and bikes can be rented in town for island exploring. Longer trips to Tobermory or Iona are possible, but allow for tighter timetables and less time ashore.
Taste the Isles
Seafood shacks on the pier serve prawns, langoustines, and scallops fresh from the boats. Restaurants in town add polish, while the Oban Distillery offers a dram that pairs neatly with a drizzly afternoon. A stop at a bakery before boarding turns even a short ferry ride into a small feast.
Suggested Itineraries
2–3 Days (No Car)
Ferries run frequently to Kerrera and Mull, and foot passengers usually board without difficulty. All crossings are weather-dependent, though; strong winds can delay or cancel sailings. If you plan a late return, be ready to wait for a later boat—and on longer routes like Mull or Lismore, rare cancellations can mean an unexpected overnight.
- Day 1: Cross to Kerrera and follow the coast path to Gylen Castle before returning for a seafood supper on the pier.
- Day 2: Take the ferry to Mull and bus north to Tobermory, where bright houses line the harbour and wildlife cruises leave the quay. Wander the waterfront before sailing back to Oban.
- Day 3: Rent a bike and set off for Lismore, a green island of quiet roads, seabirds, and lighthouse horizons. Pack a picnic and enjoy an unhurried ride before returning home.
4–5 Days (With a Car)
Several of these outings involve taking your car on the ferry. Book vehicle spaces well ahead in summer and check conditions before you travel—sailings are fewer than foot-passenger services and strong winds can cause delays. Build in a little flexibility if you’re counting on a same-day return.
- Day 1: Stay local. Tour the distillery, climb to McCaig’s Tower for its amphitheatre views, and linger along the promenade.
- Day 2: Drive across Mull, pausing at Duart Castle or Calgary Bay, or continue west to Iona for the abbey pilgrimage. This day requires the car ferry to Craignure.
- Day 3: Spend the morning on Kerrera—the ferry is foot-passenger only, so leave the car in Oban—then use the afternoon to drive south for coastal viewpoints where the sea and hills fold together.
- Day 4: No ferries required. Cross Clachan Bridge, the graceful 18th-century stone arch known as the Bridge over the Atlantic, to reach the Slate Islands. Wander Easdale’s flooded quarries and quiet harbours before returning to town.
- Day 5: End with contrast: either the prehistoric stones and cairns of Kilmartin Glen, or the mountain drama of Glencoe. All by road.
Practical Planning
- When to go: April–June and September bring long days and calmer seas; July–August is lively but crowded; winter is quieter but timetables shorten.
- Weather: Sea breezes can turn quickly—pack a windproof layer and good shoes, plus snacks and water in case a return sailing is delayed.
- Ferries: Foot passengers usually board without difficulty, but all services depend on weather. Cars must be booked in advance, and in rare cases a cancelled last return may mean an overnight on the island.
- Ferry rhythm: Build your day around outbound and return times. Morning crossings leave more room for detours or weather shifts.