Ullapool: Last Frontier of the Highlands

Ullapool is smaller than the Highlands’ other hubs — more a harbour village than a town — but its role is bigger than its size. Set on Loch Broom, a long sea loch (a narrow arm of the sea), it feels like a frontier: the last proper stop before the empty moors and sandstone peaks of the far northwest. From here the road bends into Assynt and Coigach, landscapes that seem unchanged for centuries. Ferries depart for the Outer Hebrides; to north and south are some of Britain’s most dramatic coastal drives.

This is a base for walkers, photographers, and unhurried road-trippers who want the landscape to be the day’s main event: pyramid-shaped mountains rising straight from the moor, white-sand bays with turquoise water, cliffs and caves that tell the story of ancient rock. It’s also a place to pause and breathe — fishing boats in the harbour, live music in the pubs, and a waterfront promenade that really does feel like the end of the line.

Adventures for Every Traveller

Ullapool’s “satellites” lie in two great arcs: Assynt to the north and Coigach to the south. Both are close enough for day trips, but the roads are narrow and time stretches — plan simple days with room to stop.

• Stac Pollaidh (Assynt): A short but steep hill walk that climbs quickly to one of the northwest’s most iconic ridges. From the summit path you look out over a jigsaw of lochs and isolated sandstone peaks such as Suilven and Canisp. The main trail is clear and well-maintained, while the final airy crest can be admired from below if you’d rather not scramble.
• Achmelvich & Clachtoll Beaches (Assynt): These two beaches lie side by side on the west coast, known for white sand, startlingly clear water, and low rocky headlands perfect for gentle clambering. The waters are cold year-round, but paddling or simply walking the shoreline is rewarding. At Clachtoll is the remains of a 2,000-year-old Iron Age stone tower. Positioned on a rocky knoll overlooking the Scottish coast, its visible remnants add a historic and imposing touch to the modern landscape.
• Ardvreck Castle & Bone Caves (Assynt): On the shores of Loch Assynt stand the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, once a MacLeod stronghold with a dramatic past. A short drive away, the Bone Caves near Inchnadamph offer a family-friendly walk into a limestone valley where archaeologists uncovered ancient animal remains, including reindeer and polar bear — a striking mix of history and geology in one day.
• Coigach & the Summer Isles: Coigach is the remote peninsula south of Ullapool, reached by a winding single-track road through moorland and lochs to villages like Achiltibuie. From its headlands you look straight out over the scattered Summer Isles just offshore — a group of islands, some softened with grassy slopes and the odd croft (a small farmstead), others bare rock rising stark from the sea, all surrounded by shifting light and wide water. In summer, small boats from Ullapool and nearby piers venture among the islets for wildlife watching (seals, seabirds, and sometimes dolphins). Wide horizons and shifting light make both the peninsula and the islands a favourite for photographers.
• Knockan Crag (Geopark): A small but fascinating stop on the road north, with short waymarked trails that explain the Moine Thrust — the geological fault where rocks more than 500 million years old were pushed over younger layers during ancient mountain-building. Outdoor exhibits and sculptures make it easy to grasp, and the viewpoint rewards you with one of the great Highland panoramas.
• Corrieshalloch Gorge: Just south of Ullapool lies this narrow mile-long chasm carved by the River Droma. A suspension bridge and viewing platform let you look straight down onto the 45-metre Falls of Measach. It’s a dramatic sight, well-managed with short trails and easily accessible from the road. It's a good option for mixed weather days.

Where to Stay

Ullapool spreads along the waterfront with accommodation clustered near the harbour and up a few quiet streets behind.

• Harbour hotels & inns: The centre of Ullapool hugs the harbour, and staying here puts you just steps from the ferry terminal, seafood restaurants, and pubs where music spills into the night. These hotels and inns are the most convenient if you want to walk straight off the boat or catch an early sailing the next morning, with the bonus of loch views right outside your window.
• Guesthouses & B&Bs: A block or two back from the water you’ll find quieter residential streets where B&Bs and small guesthouses offer a homely welcome. Many come with views toward the hills or the loch, and the traditional Highland breakfast — hearty and unhurried — is part of the charm. It’s a good choice if you prefer calm nights but still want to be within a short stroll of the harbour.
• Self-catering: Around the edges of the village and out toward Leckmelm, cottages and flats give you more space and flexibility. They suit families or longer stays, with kitchens for easy meals after a day on the road, and often gardens or terraces where you can sit out with the evening light on Loch Broom. Having your own base makes it easier to shape days around weather and energy, especially in this far-north setting.
• Camping & pods: Ullapool has well-kept campsites right by the loch and a few modern camping pods nearby. They’re popular in summer, so book ahead if you’re travelling in peak season. Waking to the sound of gulls and the view of fishing boats leaving the harbour is part of the appeal, and facilities are generally good for both tents and campervans.

No Car? No Problem.

It’s doable, but plan carefully. Coaches link Inverness and Ullapool; once here, options include boat trips to the Summer Isles, short local walks (such as Ullapool Hill for sunset views), and taxis or tours to nearby sights. Buses north into Assynt and south into Coigach are limited — check times well ahead and keep days simple.

• Coach: Regular services from Inverness; journey ~1 hr 30–45 min depending on stops.
• On foot: Ullapool Hill (Meall Mòr) rises behind the village for a 60–90 minute round trip with fine views of Loch Broom.
• Taxis & tours: Useful for Corrieshalloch Gorge, Knockan Crag, or joining a Stac Pollaidh/Assynt day if buses don’t line up.
• Boat trips: Seasonal cruises to the Summer Isles depart the harbour; book ahead in busy months.

Taste the Northwest

Menus lean local: seafood straight from the lochs, venison and game when in season, and comforting bowls of soup on blustery days. The chippy by the harbour is a favourite; pubs pour Highland ales and whiskies, and summer evenings often carry live music out into the street.

Suggested Itineraries

Keep plans simple and allow time for single-track roads, photo stops, and the odd sheep that decides the road is theirs.

2–3 Days (No Car)

• Day 1: Arrive by coach from Inverness. Stroll the harbour, visit the museum, and walk Ullapool Hill for sunset over Loch Broom.
• Day 2: Boat trip to the Summer Isles (weather-dependent), then a relaxed afternoon along the waterfront with a seafood supper.
• Day 3: Taxi or tour to Corrieshalloch Gorge and Knockan Crag: Both offer short trails with outsized impact — a sheer gorge with a waterfall and suspension bridge, and a cliff-top walk where ancient rocks were thrust over younger ones. Striking scenery, explained with clear geology displays.

5 Days (With a Car)

• Day 1: Corrieshalloch Gorge & Knockan Crag — Ease in with two varied stops close to Ullapool: the waterfall and suspension bridge at the gorge, then the short trails and viewpoints at Knockan Crag.
• Day 2: Stac Pollaidh & Coigach Loop — Climb Stac Pollaidh for vast views (the ridge scramble is optional). Continue the single-track loop toward Achiltibuie for panoramas across the Summer Isles; return via Achnahaird beach if time allows.
• Day 3: Achmelvich, Clachtoll & Stoer — A day of beaches and headlands. Paddle in clear shallows at Achmelvich, wander Clachtoll’s rocks, and, if time, drive to Stoer Lighthouse for cliff-top views.
• Day 4: Ardvreck Castle & Bone Caves — Explore the loch-side ruins of Ardvreck; then walk the waymarked path to the Bone Caves above Inchnadamph for a short family-friendly adventure.
• Day 5: Free Day or Hebrides Link — Keep it flexible: linger in Ullapool, add a second Summer Isles boat trip, or push farther north for viewpoints around Kylesku. Ferries to Stornoway make Ullapool a natural springboard to the Outer Hebrides, but the crossing is long for a there-and-back day — treat it as an onward journey, not a day trip.

Practical Planning

• When to go: April–June and September bring long light and fewer midges; July–August is busiest; winter days are short but atmospheric when clear.
• Roads: Many routes are single-track. Use passing places to let oncoming traffic and faster drivers by, and never park in a passing place.
• Fuel & charging: Top up in Ullapool; services thin out in Assynt and Coigach. Plan EV charging ahead of time.
• Weather: It changes fast. Waterproofs, warm layers, and sturdy footwear make days easier in any season.
• Midges: Late May–September in still, damp conditions. Repellent and head nets help on calm days.
• Ferries: Ullapool–Stornoway is popular; book in advance if you are continuing to the Outer Hebrides.

Accessibility & Families

Ullapool works well for mixed-ability groups: short, level walks sit close to bigger hill days and scenic drives.

• Level routes: Harbour promenade and short sections at Corrieshalloch (viewpoints) and Knockan Crag (lower trail).
• Easy viewpoints: Stoer Lighthouse and many lay-bys offer big scenery with minimal walking.
• Family extras: Beaches at Achmelvich/Clachtoll (watch tides and cold water), museum in town, and short wildlife-friendly boat trips in season.